Coast Action

Been a bit slack with the updates but after a little break from the rock I've been getting out and about and cleaning up a few new problems too. Photo me on 'Mercy Killing'

I revisited a little crag I call slip stream just up the road from me a Phegans Bay which is an old Anthoney Alexander area. I cleaned up some of the lines and did a few nice easy problems up there as well as a nice v5 I called 'Mercy Killing' which is a bit of an eliminate but fun climbing none the less. Still plenty to do there and a few hard lines there too.

Pat Reynolds did a flying visit a few weeks back now and we hit up the brown room where he managed all the standard classics as well as a quick second ascent of 'Red October v7' he also came super close to doing 'Brutal v9' which needs a second ascent so hopefully he'll be back soon to crush it! We also ducked into the pearl jam cave to try 'dissident v8' which is still unrepeated. We both got smacked around on it and I struggled to repeat the moves again, maybe it's a little harder? definitely a steely number and one of the coast's harder 8's for sure.

The development continues around the Dark Forrest. I've been working through some really nice lines along the upper ridge and added a handful of nice easy new problems. Most of the stuff in this section are low in the grade range but some really nice climbing even the -v0 are great and interesting. Some stand outs were;

'Mexican Mavis v3' which has a funky mantle on an iron stone ledge.

'Fresh Squeezed v6' is a nice eliminate of 'the ark' which is a steep arete, the harder variation climbs the arete proper not using any face holds.

'Riddles abound tonight 'v4 is another great problem which climbs out a little cave to a weird slopey top out.

'Five spice v4/5' is probably my favourite new problem and climbs a gently overhanging face on perfect edges to a big move to the high slopey lip and a rounded top out classic!

Me and fellow coast climber Al headed to the Happy place again too and added two nice additions 'Yummy Noodle v6' which pinches up the tufa feature on the main wall from a sit start and a really nice problem I named 'front end loader v5' which climbs out a steep detached block below the main cliff.

The scrubbing continues.....