tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23135918957714836352024-02-20T10:30:46.444-08:00Central Coast BoulderingNews and updates for bouldering on the New South Wales Central Coast, my life bouldering and travelsDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-46591784110891722242011-01-21T03:21:00.000-08:002011-01-22T23:07:52.525-08:00Reflections on Hueco Tanks<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2eG8kmL0i30QVGYy-SyZmNTI2RxPvO-0vyFzfV1xJ-wKqjUEoe73_Hozt4FqXKAzsHNc8uMnCiMV6Lk7d-kNe0lY-MAS2ztyx8dzvMMRKBdGNsC1fuT5-pJI0fipXyQRnW2miNX9mU7A/s1600/Heading+Home0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5564598364394058690" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right; width: 320px; height: 185px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2eG8kmL0i30QVGYy-SyZmNTI2RxPvO-0vyFzfV1xJ-wKqjUEoe73_Hozt4FqXKAzsHNc8uMnCiMV6Lk7d-kNe0lY-MAS2ztyx8dzvMMRKBdGNsC1fuT5-pJI0fipXyQRnW2miNX9mU7A/s320/Heading+Home0001.JPG" border="0" /></a> Being back at work is no where near as good as being on a trip for a few weeks and living the climbing dream with you're only worry which boulder to try next?<br /><br />Ah well back to reality, but it was a great trip. Hueco is amazing! I really enjoyed the climbing there. There are classics of every style and grade and I would definitely recommend the trip to see it. I guess it's kind of a right of passage if you're a keen boulderer you're gonna end up at<br /><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">H</span>ueco some day.<br /><br />Is it the best bouldering in the world? In my opinion, probably not but it definitely is amazing in it's own right. I think the restrictions led to a bit of mysteria about the place and it actually made me reflect a bit on how we can take things for granted and I felt quite privileged to be able to climb there. I didn't find the tour system too bad at all, I think if you can understand why it's necessary and be a little bit flexible about what you want to climb it doesn't really detract from the experience at all. In fact it kind of added to it in a way for me. I really enjoyed climbing with all types of different people from all over the world that I may have not got to meet otherwise. Working problems together, sharing beta and stories, really great stuff.<br /><br />One thing I took away with me is how strong the scene is in Hueco and probably the U.S. in general. It was really cool to see how enthusiastic every one was all the time. It would be awesome to see more big groups of people rolling round with crash pads pushing each other up things here too! We can definitely learn a thing or two from their climbing culture. We truly have some unique world class boulder problems, especially in the Grampians but also Sydney and even the chossy old Central Coast has some gems hidden in there that would satisfy the most fussy bloc connoisseur. Get out there and enjoy them!<br /><br /><br />So enough waffle, Hueco is sick enough said. I would have liked to pull a bit harder over there but I was pretty happy how I climbed. I think the training really paid off. One of the biggest things I wanted to achieve was a bit more consistency in my climbing, just to climb things quickly at a high level (for me any how). Problems generally take me a while to warm into and complete and I rarely send that fast but I didn't really go back to anything a second day in Hueco. Which kind of makes me think I probably could have projected something harder but how many classics would I have missed out on doing?? In the end I was enjoying being somewhere where I had so many great new problems to climb that I didn't really care and I think I learnt more as a climber than just Trying a couple of hard things for sure. I do think the standard there is a step up from Australia in regards to the grades though, especially in the moderates, it seems to fall back in line at the higher end.<br /><br />Notable things I did in my three weeks there;<br /><br />Purple flowers v9 (soft v10s)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdS-BmxpCNRoSLT5muq4AzSUmvJe_QXMuyBSaNdOXOjWBlbLRgyOB-rDHrYt93BoKdru_2Mx9b3KJSmQLgQczMm4A0dTAlAyeebM4zlY0u0tLxUK6K5fdzrAaviB4DcTmcqQ4XVTQAGVa8/s1600/fire001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdS-BmxpCNRoSLT5muq4AzSUmvJe_QXMuyBSaNdOXOjWBlbLRgyOB-rDHrYt93BoKdru_2Mx9b3KJSmQLgQczMm4A0dTAlAyeebM4zlY0u0tLxUK6K5fdzrAaviB4DcTmcqQ4XVTQAGVa8/s320/fire001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565273873304129042" border="0" /></a><br />10-10 V9<br /><br />Big Nosed Millie V9<br />Paleozic V9<br />Pumped Full of Semen V9<br />Beer Can Traverse V9<br /><br />Adjust your attitude v8<br />McBain v8<br />Ultra Mega v8<br />Stinking Jesus v8<br />Brand New Religion v8<br /><br />Crash test Dummy v7<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkvgb9KhTQjy5NlROuMIEmZJzXwiapx_E1HBqZ9hlEwQRqvgmk-7db603dP3i_ZbWQ77UwFZg8x8ifZkJuOLheH7si-ieHfzcTful697IhJTJ0bFvbGF_0cN2xaOtCM1seSjveZKS3umR/s1600/pull001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkvgb9KhTQjy5NlROuMIEmZJzXwiapx_E1HBqZ9hlEwQRqvgmk-7db603dP3i_ZbWQ77UwFZg8x8ifZkJuOLheH7si-ieHfzcTful697IhJTJ0bFvbGF_0cN2xaOtCM1seSjveZKS3umR/s320/pull001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565274470775668098" border="0" /></a><br />Sign of the Chalk v7<br />Daily Dick Dose v7<br />Best of the West v7<br />Belly of the beast v7<br />New Religion v7<br />Speed bump v7<br /><br />(sign of the beast 666)<br />all in a day<br /><br />Alf in a Blender v6<br />Uncut Yogi v6<br />Hypro glow v6<br /><br />Funnily enough most of my favourite climbs were many of the other easier problems things like Asylum crack v3 and 100 proof roof v3 which are quite humbling to say the least.<br /><br />I wanted to give a quick thanks to the guys at the ranch for making our trip really great. These guys have got it sorted out and if your travelling from a far I would recommend staying at the house cause it just makes getting into the park so much easier. Thanks heaps for everything Mary, Rocco, Nikias, Corbett, Dave, Neil and all the guides you guys are doing a great job!<br /><br />So great to see all the Aussies crushing hard over there too! James, Chirs, and Vinnie were all on fire. For such a small climbing community in this country we do pretty well, get behind these guys they're doing great things.<br /><br />LaterDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-8372829744091791802010-11-23T17:20:00.000-08:002010-11-23T17:30:37.809-08:00The Wood is Good<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTq6-Gfdt_q-MgSj94UGOzKDyVZFj6YPUSSe36aN5x8GJhzuu6TFoqAE95tCOv9096mPzpZcGX4JmNP83RuuYgc4JtyQi6e6Fx51GeQkWiCZvoYLgayuWZuXevawOk7cJJqckqFI8oq2v/s1600/jib+board001.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTq6-Gfdt_q-MgSj94UGOzKDyVZFj6YPUSSe36aN5x8GJhzuu6TFoqAE95tCOv9096mPzpZcGX4JmNP83RuuYgc4JtyQi6e6Fx51GeQkWiCZvoYLgayuWZuXevawOk7cJJqckqFI8oq2v/s320/jib+board001.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542922031462445986" /></a><br />Finally built a decent woody at my place and we've added loads of little wooden jibs in an attempt to get use to pulling on smaller more incut holds with small feet. I still haven't put the bad ones on yet but hopefully we'll graduate to them soon. <br /><br />It's a nice 35 degree angle so you can pull steep hard moves but still use quite small holds that you can't afford to let your feet cut off on.<br /><br />Let the jibbing beginDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-47373245816526523092010-11-19T02:46:00.000-08:002010-11-19T03:37:08.835-08:00Coming Up For Air<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTCymCSUIpa6IYLGpN8lgVLpQqtWPHLJxor_pFVEiUH_4S3tAOUeozgZeQthqQrIBp46XBMAUrxgNDORmhI62dTbhRwaHWs1R8ridrNEvLlkI_UaPDF6Z4KXRgWBKIp-fycpbaSnG8BJb/s1600/pinky001.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 253px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTCymCSUIpa6IYLGpN8lgVLpQqtWPHLJxor_pFVEiUH_4S3tAOUeozgZeQthqQrIBp46XBMAUrxgNDORmhI62dTbhRwaHWs1R8ridrNEvLlkI_UaPDF6Z4KXRgWBKIp-fycpbaSnG8BJb/s320/pinky001.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5541214085587603874" /></a><br /><br />So we're still alive and kicking!<br /><br />I've been training away quite hard the past two months with my friend Chris Ritchie in preparation for our trip to Hueco Tanks which is coming very fast. Three weeks from now we'll be on our way over wahoo!<br /><br />This year has been a bit up and down for me and i've been finding it tough sticking to my training and not really having my usual motivation. But we've really stuck to the plan the past couple of months and we are both feeling stonger with every session. I've been blown away how far Chris has come along during the training, he managed to do his first v8, 'phone sex' and has just got stonger and stronger since. I'm excited to see how far i can push it too, i feel in the best shape i've been in for a long time. I guess time will tell? but it's great to be back on the blocs again after a whole month of hang boarding and weights which nearly drove us mad ha ha.<br /><br />The basic training plan was:<br /><br />5 weeks of conditioning<br />Building up from easy problems to harder as the weeks progress with high volume<br /><br />4 weeks strength training <br />Of hang boarding and weights with very minimal climbing<br /><br />4 weeks power<br />Extremely hard bouldering and campus<br /><br />1 week taper off/ rest.<br /><br />Only 3 weeks to go of power, will it all come together in time???<br />At least i can crimp hard now!Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-34124951359102733892010-08-26T06:04:00.000-07:002010-08-26T06:22:22.991-07:00Getting HappySo I've been sneaking back out over the past month or so to my little training ground at the Happy Place and managed to clean up a few old link up projects. Most of these are all link ups but are great pwr/end problems. I haven't updated the guide yet but i'll try to do that very soon. These are the problems in question<br /><br />Dirty drowning man V7 <br />Attack of the clones V8<br />Killer Loop V9<br />Magic Beans V9<br />Long Udon V10<br /><br />I think my happy place projecting is done for a little while but I spied a few new lines so i'll be back.<br /><br />I took a few mates out there from Sydney last weekend and they all thought it great. it was good to see people thrasing it out on the problems. Neil Wallace made a really fast ascent of The golden pinch v7 and Chris 'ipoppie' Ritchie almost managed a flash of the classic happy pyramid v4 sending 2nd shot.<br /><br />We warmed up on the upper ridge with the boys repeating many of the moderates up there. Neil managed the FA of a classic line i'd been looking at on the gentle overhang wall next to the classic five spice v4. We worked the problem out with funky moves that lead to a spicy top out over a tree thats in the fall zone. 'seven swallows v6' is my new favourate problemDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-11082362334122188622010-06-28T05:47:00.000-07:002010-06-30T16:42:33.624-07:00Trips, comps and coast rockI've been a bit slack with updates of late but I haven't been getting out much around the coast but hopefully I'll be back at it over the next few months and clean up a few old projects I've got in mind.<br /><br />I've been training loads at Ecat lately but not much outside aside for a few sneaky Gramps trips which are always excellent :) Climbed in the bouldering series on Saturday night at Ecat which was awesome! so many good problems and a really strong Field of some of Australia's top climbers. The boys did a great job setting some really interesting problems and out did themselves yet again. James Kassay took it out on the day, with Tom Farrell and Ben Cossey tied 2nd and Lee Cossey third.<br /><br />Firing back up for some Coast action again soon too, so hopefully I'll get out and finish up some old projects in the coming months. I finished up one project at the Happy Place the other night which climbs out the low rail as for 'Viking Invader v9' but then climbs up the little bulging prow to finish up 'Another clone v6'. I was lucky to get this in the end as I couldn't do any of the moves on either of the problems initially, so they felt quite solid. After I re-worked all moves out I had a couple of shots form the start and got lucky sending 'Attack of the Clones' it felt like around v8. Now I just have to link it back into the underclinging traverse of 'Damage inc v8' and the full loop will be done.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-89740572482083460742010-05-12T19:13:00.000-07:002010-05-12T19:25:00.654-07:00Back in the GrampsSo we're back down the Gramps after wetting our appetites with a great trip down in Easter. Despite the hot conditions the Easter trip was great with a lot of sending especially Philby Neville who managed to dispatch all his projects in one weekend of sending fury including 'Monkey Bars v8', 'Happy Camper Trav v9' 'Shanghai v8'as well as 'haribo boulder v9' just for good measure. Awesome effort mate!<br /><br />Conditions this time have been perfect and with loads of people down it's sure to be a great trip. It's just a shame we have to go home. I even made it up to the Gallery to belay Jason Piper on 'Monkey puzzle' He fell just before the anchors! but the gear is still on so he will do it next time I'm sure. Stellar effort though, Go coast power!Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-56714243751729994132010-04-18T01:58:00.001-07:002010-04-18T02:47:33.007-07:00Coast Action<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjLIEKz4CfL6nqg8QcbtVK0d8EZ3L1pB44qiPKLySaMrXRC3ZydxP9ZJlnVjhGI6cEg0iOj-QWnA0nygJ3y1HjdPkGFKN2ARD5on8yj_9KodBE-KTaEKfWfawqwmGzPk2h03-9c_7o754n/s1600/mercy+killing001.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjLIEKz4CfL6nqg8QcbtVK0d8EZ3L1pB44qiPKLySaMrXRC3ZydxP9ZJlnVjhGI6cEg0iOj-QWnA0nygJ3y1HjdPkGFKN2ARD5on8yj_9KodBE-KTaEKfWfawqwmGzPk2h03-9c_7o754n/s320/mercy+killing001.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461411277383078450" /></a><br />Been a bit slack with the updates but after a little break from the rock I've been getting out and about and cleaning up a few new problems too. Photo me on 'Mercy Killing'<br /><br />I revisited a little crag I call slip stream just up the road from me a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Phegans</span> Bay which <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">is</span> an old <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Anthoney</span> Alexander area. I cleaned up some of the lines and did a few nice easy problems up there as well as a nice v5 I called 'Mercy Killing' which is a bit of an eliminate but fun climbing none the less. Still plenty to do there and a few hard lines there too.<br /><br />Pat Reynolds did a flying <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">visit</span> a few weeks back now and we hit up the brown room where he managed all the standard classics as well as a quick second ascent of 'Red October v7' he also came super close to doing 'Brutal v9' which needs a second ascent so hopefully he'll be back soon to crush it! We also ducked into the pearl jam cave to try 'dissident v8' which is still unrepeated. We both got smacked around on it <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">and</span> I struggled to repeat the moves again, maybe it's a little harder? <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">definitely</span> a steely number and one of the coast's harder 8's for sure.<br /><br />The development continues around the Dark Forrest. I've been working through some really nice lines along the upper ridge and added a handful of nice easy new problems. Most of the stuff in this section are low in the grade range but some really nice climbing even the -v0 are great and interesting. Some stand outs were;<br /><br />'<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Mexican</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Mavis</span> v3' which has a funky mantle on an iron stone ledge.<br /><br />'Fresh Squeezed v6' is a nice eliminate of 'the ark' which is a steep <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">arete</span>, the harder variation climbs the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">arete</span> proper not using any face holds.<br /><br />'Riddles abound <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">tonight 'v</span>4 is another great problem which climbs out a little cave to a weird <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">slopey</span> top out.<br /><br />'Five spice v4/5' is probably my favourite new problem and climbs a gently overhanging face on perfect edges to a big move to the high <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">slopey</span> lip and a rounded top out classic!<br /><br />Me and fellow coast climber Al headed to the Happy place again too and added two nice additions 'Yummy Noodle v6' which pinches up the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">tufa</span> feature on the main wall from a sit start and a really nice problem I named 'front end loader v5' which climbs out a steep detached block below the main cliff.<br /><br />The scrubbing continues.....Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-9800375206515083332010-02-19T00:44:00.000-08:002010-02-19T00:52:46.117-08:00Making ContactI finally managed to haul my old tired ass up contact @ the Villa's on Tuesday arvo. It will be nice to not have to do the long drive from the Coast to Sutherland for a little while. I had been going down about twice a week to try it since I've been home from Swiss. I nearly sent a few weeks ago but popped my footing going for the jug near the end :( I spent six sessions since being home plus five earlier last year. Happy Days.<br /><br />Now rest and back to begin training for a huge winter!Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-71110711545205547332010-01-28T02:30:00.000-08:002010-01-28T02:33:58.553-08:00Happy Place GuideThe Guide for "The Happy Place" has been updated, get on it!<br /><br />http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=1459Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-7173512525879342222010-01-23T23:04:00.000-08:002010-01-24T11:37:06.562-08:00Switzerland wrap up<div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDItV32PGH_a7o7-HYZe7s2zX3n2819zcql7j2TsbuOjh0KfdXZgnrUA-ebZTzC5_1QqBxyGyqEY6KUdK0uD8ReLSVo5Ou5kI97aSXPs5PXlt1LcNjUl6zlHWwNM8G4t-AuxjFcwIYO4DW/s1600-h/gudo001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430199984320515666" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; width: 200px; cursor: pointer; height: 134px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDItV32PGH_a7o7-HYZe7s2zX3n2819zcql7j2TsbuOjh0KfdXZgnrUA-ebZTzC5_1QqBxyGyqEY6KUdK0uD8ReLSVo5Ou5kI97aSXPs5PXlt1LcNjUl6zlHWwNM8G4t-AuxjFcwIYO4DW/s200/gudo001.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The dream is over, boo hoo hoo. Just finished my first week back at work and I miss the beautiful Swiss Alps. The final week we had there was amazing, so much fun and an awesome crew. Thanks guys for making it a great trip, I'm sure your all loving being back to reality just as much as I am.<br /><br />So after spending a frustrating few days waiting for the snow to bugger off and a fun trip to Interlarken (even though it was snowing too much to see the Igar)<br />we finally managed to cram a lot into the last three days with some beautiful and crisp conditions. Unfortunately I was a bit slack on the photo's cause of all the frantic climbing, sorry.<br /><br />I had been really keen to get back on this roof problem called 'Backgammon' which is an 8a or a 7c stand. It has a huge move out the roof to a sloper then a go again to a good edge at nearly full span. We managed to work out a good way to do the move with a high heel and I was sure I would be able to do the problem having nearly stuck the move. I had a quick look at the easy finishing moves or at least that's what I thought! I got totally shut down. I wasn't able to work out a good way of linking the crux throw into the finishing traverse that exits the roof via a thin seam, Tragedy! So off we went with our tails between our legs to find some other problems. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDxDcYk2vND17df7cpeWhA8iIIB7r3ALK7yykKvus8S9IpcofliIrltgkJRO6eGoczpQbyOy_RPsFW5ebuCwrBlUo0QawOhUd-FExvtBpo_JgL2ol44h-2S6PSlgFy_swzQxbH38x4V4jJ/s1600-h/XP0004.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430251824234824450" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right; width: 214px; height: 320px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDxDcYk2vND17df7cpeWhA8iIIB7r3ALK7yykKvus8S9IpcofliIrltgkJRO6eGoczpQbyOy_RPsFW5ebuCwrBlUo0QawOhUd-FExvtBpo_JgL2ol44h-2S6PSlgFy_swzQxbH38x4V4jJ/s320/XP0004.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We headed over to the Jungle book for Pat to try for a send on the sit start. Unfortunately the snow kept the top out wet and he never got the chance to finish it off. I felt bad for him, he had looked so solid on it and I'm sure he would have got it done if he had the chance. One for next time.<br /><br /></div><div> </div><div>XP is this cool little 7c on a small triangular bloc in front of Jungle book. Me and Pat had been spying it since we got there and it was time to give it a go. Essentially it's a hard pull on from an undercling with bad feet then slap out some sharp holds to get out of the low pit, punch out to the arete and cruise to the top. After struggling with the first move initially we both manage to send. Pat also managed a quick send of this awesome 7a+ near by "Media Men" involved slapping up this fridge type block feature then a huge move at the top. He managed to over come the dicey top out without falling much to my relief.<br /><br /></div><div> </div><div>One last big day. We decide to just get out and just have some fun and we ended up climbing alot of stuff it was really cool. So a quick run down.</div><div> </div><div>Me, Pat and Tor all managed "street parade 7a" which is a classic Cresciano sloper traverse. Pat made a quick send of "voule a vont 7a" and a surprise ascent of the area classic "Arcadia 7c" which is a proud slopey arete. Pat and me also managed "voci dalla cantina 7b+" After a quick chat with Bern Zangeral we all did this classic high ball boulder which Pat scrambled like an egg and was one of the most memorable of the trip. Me and Tor also snuck in the clas<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyMM_BIuONJLFyoT_dmkOSV-VbrQFHVnKD9R0Ln-jAnpCpC2htfWO4jHXIx7q7f9Wfpvd8iyi4jgr1iqQA12ekw_7QJAw5XvHX3bOgXxX4N7IcXyDhHHvNWVmlfoMO2cYwvYbE_eHVua0/s1600-h/high+ball001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyMM_BIuONJLFyoT_dmkOSV-VbrQFHVnKD9R0Ln-jAnpCpC2htfWO4jHXIx7q7f9Wfpvd8iyi4jgr1iqQA12ekw_7QJAw5XvHX3bOgXxX4N7IcXyDhHHvNWVmlfoMO2cYwvYbE_eHVua0/s320/high+ball001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5430280252321679442" border="0" /></a>sic "ci credo o non ci credo 7a" just before dark, happy days.<br /><br /></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>The last day is still a bit of a blur, I ran into Milan with Pat at 3am to get him off for his flight home then jumped back in bed for a couple hours before me, Tor and Simen headed out for one last quick hoorah. I had a quick look at this problem high up in the boulder field the previous day called "carlo il magnifico 7a+" it looked awesome, so we thought we'd head up and give it a shot. This thing is a seriously cool sharp arete feature slapping up opposing side pulls and the arete. We only had till about 1.00pm before we had to leave to get the boys to the train and me and Tor were both getting very close. It came right down to the wire in the end with me just managing to scrap a send in and Tor getting robbed when his hand blew of the side pull going to the finishing hold.<br /><br /></div><div> </div><div>So there you go, the end of an unbelievable trip.</div>Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-8555584049699601512010-01-10T15:08:00.000-08:002010-01-10T16:00:42.914-08:00Kram Snø (sticky snow)<div><div><div>The last week hasn't brought alot of news. Me and Pat kind of broke ourselves after pushing five or six sort of short days on, which caught up to us in the end. We spent a few days resting and pick up the Nord's Tor and Simen from Milan and now our little group is complete but it seems the boys have brought the 'Kram Sno' or 'sticky snow' from Norway with them. We got pounded with 20cm over night!<br /><br />What to do? </div><div><br />Boulder at Brione!<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425256053696831250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNpKzb9lE6Eav7eNHYsjfA_jWvRQF2kFM5geFGS-oQTIbkv-jWLANFVEhyphenhyphenDtRYDdFb-ZvGSzTw6gaZYTwh_HRF0Pqq9YrHyGhCRubW4rptfIThWbrTByzZw_rEm-J95DugfYTlw5GErrE/s320/frogger0002.JPG" border="0" />Frogger 8a Brione</div><br /><div>This area has to be one of the most awesome I've seen here! so much great looking stuff. Unfortunate that the snow was so heavy. This amazing cave is one of the only things that stays dry and is climbable in the snow. We had some vauge directions and descriptions so we thought we'd give it a shot. We headed up in heavy snow and our little van only barely made it up the slippery icey roads 'the boys had to get out and push up some of the steep hills'. We made it in the end and it was awesome, the cave has the most spectacular colours and sculpted grips. Tor and Pat made quick work of the short 7a+ in the cave which shut me down and then it was on to Frogger.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425256835717861058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8VfHlCQygQhOVzdf8hJ7kJW16aTPf1dFzjmDO9Pcn35H69z3eoh-B1_6Y8umxgtmYEHnMuhwKZB3wpVpcvSIdbx6KyYGMQY_3lHzEarM9evSYIquiJc3FkNCy26lE9OXKno6IukTCW6px/s320/frogger0001.JPG" border="0" />Pat and me working Frogger</div><br /><br /><p>Such a super problem, perfect holds, beautiful, I wish one of us had sent it. We worked out the funky heel, toe beta for the start. I managed to link the starting moves but was getting shut down trying to work out the finish which eluded us. One to come back for...</p><p>All the snow has made for some fun rest days which have involved driving around to some different towns, eating and drinking. Great fun! Weather has cleared now so we're back into it tomorrow. </p><p>Rest day in Bissone<br /></p><p></p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425261894070035954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 214px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlpobQOptczfqFK_U8e92rwkYmNIrUd6RahpZJdVaaySpyCdgVY9CTK6Jqda26Z4sQUGDe7Z5T1gF5jwjcCXmWmhX8mHNufLTP4cgdAmpveBgiJ-Q6K6Z3hk1EKmpS3YcJ7RDHk8i_zDgd/s320/Bissone20001.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425262448229672370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 214px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB_ItYwy4WWDGV8-BrPbeo1yRlwmlEG-KxWN7oTulpDdEZYhA_TYi2o0JFRxxOGtP2KlrUfQgrtHwPDdNna0kaOfrDjmXP5-YygT9uJhYXbm1A7ZMyLa7sgVf_eFtcNVlSnskQxDrdn-K7/s320/Bissone0002.JPG" border="0" /></p></div></div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425263464667424082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBN9_d_HSEELvGT5wlvCOTyemDpV6Z8av_V7bpZtQ1sfgSLLBEkWiynZTXBVvQ3sQAqTolbPB_k21HDBqil2QYOX1DH9BlKmxq-wRW2oYvQdnN9UoL9xW1IpqlW7rlzXeFJjoXBK2bKBSg/s320/Bissone20002.JPG" border="0" /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425264508414923666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9g6Db9Jh86l1K1n4geMZ88mO9o9wwrKT_ypmr1RNg5ap_naAMNNLcdBVoivPKO0fmNLefG0gaymZypaqJuC7ycsRMN4FN8GOkC_x0G2VEO4mOdi1CIGIllw7vKozHedftM_yh2tDatGLK/s320/Bissone0001.JPG" border="0" />Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-40313655363129566482010-01-06T10:17:00.001-08:002010-01-06T10:31:27.705-08:00Swiss updateMe on l'altra faccia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHI4VV-HIm9ocJzSyX8FNQ1taygXfk6qxdnZvcwDJryjQXy-GMoQDRNSPt0TOb-mcvAicwsq5NeNUgyGmFnkOKiV5aOrWs0SzCD_wq9WBi89qEcbokmyCjY7sq6EFxlY4JodFRkT1CQBAy/s1600-h/L'altra+faccia+7b0002.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423693384841295490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHI4VV-HIm9ocJzSyX8FNQ1taygXfk6qxdnZvcwDJryjQXy-GMoQDRNSPt0TOb-mcvAicwsq5NeNUgyGmFnkOKiV5aOrWs0SzCD_wq9WBi89qEcbokmyCjY7sq6EFxlY4JodFRkT1CQBAy/s320/L'altra+faccia+7b0002.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>We've been running around like mad trying every thing we can and working our selves into the ground but we have managed to haul our self up a few things. Pat had an awesome day the other day and sent 'le grotto de soupris 7c+' and the stand to 'Jungle book 8a'. Super effort mate. We both managed 'ictus cerebral 7c' I got up 'la pinoche 7b+' also as well as 'l'altra faccia 7b'. I've lost track of all the easier classics, there is so much to do and so little time. Pat has been working the sit start to jungle book and has made some really good links, hopefully we can get back there soon so he can crush it. </div><div> </div><div>I've been looking for a good project to put some time into but i'm still not sure on what yet? I've been feeling pretty good so i'd really like to test my metal on some of the harder lines. Let the search continue....</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjamRGXbfj999ZM9sq7vQaAFsdv5xtjVFiAYaTviI0UgAAS6ZQZqwwdeg80VjzPmY6_ull6NtZBOh6sHxg9ARIPaNNHQ-a2Ytzz8DUadjYa6WlMEkvxaiMeA2EcBXiUgyCtnA-UlIfwpCMT/s1600-h/german+Jungle+book0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423693126936312738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjamRGXbfj999ZM9sq7vQaAFsdv5xtjVFiAYaTviI0UgAAS6ZQZqwwdeg80VjzPmY6_ull6NtZBOh6sHxg9ARIPaNNHQ-a2Ytzz8DUadjYa6WlMEkvxaiMeA2EcBXiUgyCtnA-UlIfwpCMT/s320/german+Jungle+book0001.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> German Dude 'Jungle book from the sit 8a+'<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2THFHePRVfmEo5X6xqU-BrI_1T6mdPquwaHYaT6oYyBI5IPI1bEkbW35ZOnXx0Wn2aTkhLIJ7qGtsyGBJClWBnOqTcBYKRNQIAV4ptcCIUTZ45QUc0uXK6eBSFva47nSveH1e0J_FNiF/s1600-h/Pat+Jungle+book0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423692841335966274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 214px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2THFHePRVfmEo5X6xqU-BrI_1T6mdPquwaHYaT6oYyBI5IPI1bEkbW35ZOnXx0Wn2aTkhLIJ7qGtsyGBJClWBnOqTcBYKRNQIAV4ptcCIUTZ45QUc0uXK6eBSFva47nSveH1e0J_FNiF/s320/Pat+Jungle+book0001.JPG" border="0" /></a> Pat working the sit on Jungle book<br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div>Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-5710910111440883572010-01-03T01:53:00.000-08:002010-01-03T02:14:51.993-08:00From the land of ChocolateCool little house on the death road past chironico<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVc6KQWEoy0_mHExiy9KOJDEWwEqrwUIrNJIVF_6mj830ZyDUOsG9gnn-cmBGDxSYfx8vWq8yRZHAqcHAxjkZO3Jwyfck-jlQpT4Zt7ivkmdgXr7ybMoXfpg4Lp1t7sx6xrpv8ZlZ1Gv1/s1600-h/grumo0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422454607681881634" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVc6KQWEoy0_mHExiy9KOJDEWwEqrwUIrNJIVF_6mj830ZyDUOsG9gnn-cmBGDxSYfx8vWq8yRZHAqcHAxjkZO3Jwyfck-jlQpT4Zt7ivkmdgXr7ybMoXfpg4Lp1t7sx6xrpv8ZlZ1Gv1/s320/grumo0001.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><br /><div>Me getting whipped on 'la Pinoche 7b+' cresciano<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwSTo95RjjgDCJ02d0JG12_uKh_tN8ukDAtQ2Gag2FGZXcCnvIAjFJDMXxjNj-1f0hLSYhDdHit7tdbou6G9MYnrcqUCWkjbQyvHGb9WAo3BfuDY7CDXuJZo6osHtZW4psxy0asWYBgY3n/s1600-h/la+pionche0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422453996237230834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwSTo95RjjgDCJ02d0JG12_uKh_tN8ukDAtQ2Gag2FGZXcCnvIAjFJDMXxjNj-1f0hLSYhDdHit7tdbou6G9MYnrcqUCWkjbQyvHGb9WAo3BfuDY7CDXuJZo6osHtZW4psxy0asWYBgY3n/s320/la+pionche0001.JPG" border="0" /></a> Pat with the post van at chironico<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3rr3TO0SyR0HAgS3sBQ5dMd59p8x6tp-tpgO_i1fQCRE_eO3zuSnMrzT7cjTnLsAJ71PUjw2JgoVmQgdphl6sJ2xp25BgekGiooFKaZ-r7bOHlN9btFonpqvrCGtp2xzLft2b8orzh9tT/s1600-h/chironico0002.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422451596562356578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3rr3TO0SyR0HAgS3sBQ5dMd59p8x6tp-tpgO_i1fQCRE_eO3zuSnMrzT7cjTnLsAJ71PUjw2JgoVmQgdphl6sJ2xp25BgekGiooFKaZ-r7bOHlN9btFonpqvrCGtp2xzLft2b8orzh9tT/s320/chironico0002.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>So we've been bunkered down here in our little swiss house for nearly a week now and it's been awesome. After ariving and a death drive by myself through Italy in our little post man van I managed to find our house and make it back to pick up Pat from the airport the next day. </div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6y_s4ppnuW0OAwPzqGujxUnmel9S0DjyZkGBTTrmYtlLsC7NP1O12rpDDvbjsL92phgRUCmrGHyTRDRGrO2xaVIRXqfmTBMt_iUYSg-wpJfwi5hq_7py-x5T7s2EMCWCIdzs2FYwm18fN/s1600-h/pat+area70001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5422449951356862546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 214px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6y_s4ppnuW0OAwPzqGujxUnmel9S0DjyZkGBTTrmYtlLsC7NP1O12rpDDvbjsL92phgRUCmrGHyTRDRGrO2xaVIRXqfmTBMt_iUYSg-wpJfwi5hq_7py-x5T7s2EMCWCIdzs2FYwm18fN/s320/pat+area70001.JPG" border="0" /></a></div></div><br /><br /><p>Pat warming up on a high ball Cresciano</p><br /><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p>The first few days were spent at Cresciano with great conditions except for a bit of snow. We spent lots of time learning to climb these beautiful boulders and getting shut down on projects. Pat managed an impressive flash of la Pionche 7b+ on the amazing la Pelle boulder. We took a quick trip further up to Chironico which is quite snowy at the moment but still some classic's to be had. I managed to haul my ass up a beautiful problem call 'Globe trotter' 7a which I really had to work hard for but was worth all the effort. We got snowed off after that before taking a wrong turn and ending up on an ice death road but we've made it back and are waiting for better weather to come.</p></div>Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-31046800555715007382009-12-25T20:59:00.000-08:002009-12-25T21:11:26.796-08:00Up up and away<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktkVAQ7LbhaX8HVB6CY20xnwmGY2kHF2s2L845DWrpF3zfxQLRcOb9ik6Zga6QHDJgKHTDZGYOk4FB4yhVP_xbC1yRSvZ6-Xrp0542KS_JAdsQcIouUzV66TT6WXv-YJ-4RaH0QN_coam/s1600-h/gear001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktkVAQ7LbhaX8HVB6CY20xnwmGY2kHF2s2L845DWrpF3zfxQLRcOb9ik6Zga6QHDJgKHTDZGYOk4FB4yhVP_xbC1yRSvZ6-Xrp0542KS_JAdsQcIouUzV66TT6WXv-YJ-4RaH0QN_coam/s320/gear001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5419407898882997458" border="0" /></a> The Swiss Gneiss kit! got some new gear can't wait to give it a burn<br /><br /><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><br /><br /></span>Today is the day and I'm frantically packing for my flight to Milan tonight in the big silver bird. Super excited to be getting away, relax and climb for a whole three weeks! Weather over in Switzerland has crapped out a bit over the past week so I've packed my woolly hat and I'm hoping for some nice weather soon.<br /><br />I get in on the 27th then I pick up big burly Pat Reynolds on the 28th and big strong viking Tor joins us on the 7th. Can't wait to catch up with these guys and crush some Gneiss.<br /><br />I'll try keep plenty of updates and photos from the trip coming over the next few weeks<br /><br />Hope you all had a great Christmas!Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-66450847013451244042009-12-11T00:58:00.000-08:002009-12-11T01:17:58.074-08:00Busy BusySo I haven't updated in a while but have been very busy over the past month or so training and getting ready for Switzerland which is now only two weeks away. So crazy it's came around so fast! I haven't been climbing much at all but doing a lot of strength based training With Mark and the guys at Evolution climbing and training. These guys really know their stuff and is definitely the place to go if you want to get really strong : ) Thanks for the help guys!<br /><br />I've started climbing again and I'm feeling better and better each week apart from being sore and tired all the time from the training. I'm hoping after a week or so of rest before I go I'll be feeling Tip Top when I hit the ground in Switzerland. It's going to be a great trip and I'm really looking forward to catching up with my mates Pat and Tor over there and hitting the Gneiss blocs. I'll definitely keep the updates happening and get some photos up as the trip goes along.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-10236113793019334512009-11-06T00:38:00.000-08:002009-11-06T01:07:26.623-08:00Happy Place<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGpJCVGbIkCYpeFWVt3X2HkP5m_myS_7KwUnSX9vG9dCx_43whEHlOK3q2QHMMpx-ROhziNpoDwf29k2vmi2jVu1604qVLL_k6RwLVqT53OYYfyUK_xzz8_D1l6MFDLdZCKSmFvL-c1Ng/s1600-h/happy+place001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGpJCVGbIkCYpeFWVt3X2HkP5m_myS_7KwUnSX9vG9dCx_43whEHlOK3q2QHMMpx-ROhziNpoDwf29k2vmi2jVu1604qVLL_k6RwLVqT53OYYfyUK_xzz8_D1l6MFDLdZCKSmFvL-c1Ng/s320/happy+place001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400914528596607298" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fEkHDBcDUNnznnwcr8vh-xgz-rTLBhZsRfE757ioUSA-PVjSN-3Xz2zoFaew4mRISLq_EWB0w8VPqI8idsXjzQ-ClrhcppNx00uBZ-8o7o-dp2sFodwXjknXeDsvOLfO9NN1IA8BrZ4T/s1600-h/happy+place001.JPG"> </a><br /> Tor linking up on the F.A. of Golden Pinch<br /><br /><br />I've been revisiting the Happy Place above the cliff line of Dark Forrest over the past couple of weeks. I really like this little cliff, it has a great feel about it. I repeated all the problems we put up there last year during a session there with the Norwegians, Tor and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Simen</span> and also Gary Compton.<br />There really are some great problems at this compact little area and I will get a guide up soon so you can all check it out.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbolAJ6tqCinyPGrBpr_JiFvXVirQur-FMkGUDEl13_Zi0h-z5lq97UuEjZByEIeJlXwTsIIOSgwSdZNfgDNuOArTPTGlCIHn892bhyq08S656pSLYm9vV4V_gdv3cMEkOluuURW-jwMcf/s1600-h/happy+place003.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbolAJ6tqCinyPGrBpr_JiFvXVirQur-FMkGUDEl13_Zi0h-z5lq97UuEjZByEIeJlXwTsIIOSgwSdZNfgDNuOArTPTGlCIHn892bhyq08S656pSLYm9vV4V_gdv3cMEkOluuURW-jwMcf/s320/happy+place003.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400912674346525794" border="0" /></a> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Gaz</span> C. on the Happy Pyramid<br /><br /><br /><br />After repeating all the classics like Happy Pyramid V4 and Deadbolt V6 I finally managed to repeat Tor's Golden Pinch. I was really happy cause I couldn't touch it last time, I guess you need to be Viking strong like a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Nord</span>! I managed to clean up some projects there too over a few little <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">arvo</span> session's including the low start further down the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">slopey</span> ledge into Deadbolt @ v7. A tricky <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">undercling</span> traverse on a variety of little knobs and nubbins produced Damage inc @ v8 and climbing out the low ledge under the roof then popping out and finishing up the mantle 'hydraulic' created 'Viking invader v9'.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgel380XcK8ZOEMEsGK_1tbaJSUjzcdI8K2ypGgHgiv3334E-6iwiojmNVzI9_TUZsOJUXEpq8mQL7nCxWVk630zsdYM1wdp27YxQ1N-0lB45SiEsFzzKTva4pDvAIX4PbuXNLfE4mrVbiH/s1600-h/happy+place002.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgel380XcK8ZOEMEsGK_1tbaJSUjzcdI8K2ypGgHgiv3334E-6iwiojmNVzI9_TUZsOJUXEpq8mQL7nCxWVk630zsdYM1wdp27YxQ1N-0lB45SiEsFzzKTva4pDvAIX4PbuXNLfE4mrVbiH/s320/happy+place002.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400912274392062610" border="0" /></a> The golden Pinch<br /><br /><br />I really will get this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">topo</span> done soon, it's shady in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">arvo</span> so will be perfect for a late summer session.<br /><br />LaterDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-68554026759478555232009-10-19T03:04:00.000-07:002009-10-19T03:14:16.802-07:00Lara Street<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MxmttTpWEp7qx2bws-FJGFICejgcW2E6rK0yXPEBBdeJpKRyb3ki0379beS0WlAx9ykbzLXJGMvLtYvFXpUkuQWGtScAEChySV-v64Y_j08lsUocGwt3CQ_KF-Eq8feAAN6h9_rR97Aa/s1600-h/Chris+Aslaya001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MxmttTpWEp7qx2bws-FJGFICejgcW2E6rK0yXPEBBdeJpKRyb3ki0379beS0WlAx9ykbzLXJGMvLtYvFXpUkuQWGtScAEChySV-v64Y_j08lsUocGwt3CQ_KF-Eq8feAAN6h9_rR97Aa/s320/Chris+Aslaya001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394252100544197474" border="0" /></a> Ritchie on '<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Aslaya</span>'<br /><br /><br />Had a nice session at Lara Street on Sunday. Me and Katy met up with Chris Ritchie and Jason <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Taffle</span> and headed up on Sunday morning. We ended up having a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Cruisey</span> day but managed to put a few nice new problems on the side of the Lara's Lips boulder. Chris added <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Aslaya</span> nice V1 or V2, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Jas</span> added 'My ass is on fire, a spicy V3' I manage a few little problems including 'Prince of Persia V2', 'Johnny Utah V5' and 'Tongue n Cheek V5'. I also managed to finally haul my ass up 'Womb Raider V4' Which is a total classic by Pommy Jason. Nice one lads!Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-43746165305459085932009-10-11T04:41:00.000-07:002009-10-11T05:00:23.604-07:00Mmmm new craggingFound a cool little new area today up the top of Dark Forrest. Nice group of boulders with nice features, nothing super hard but a good little cruisey area. I put up 16 easy probs this arvo so I'll try and get some info up soon. Looks like some of it may have been climbed before?? but I'll put something together in the interest of getting of record of stuff. If any one ever has some recorded info for these crags let me know, i can always credit the first <span style="color:#000000;">ascents.<br /></span><span style="color:#ffff00;"></span><br />Been resting the last few weeks so it felt good to be getting back out and getting some mileage. Now that it's training time again I'll post my training plans as soon as i have a chance. 11 weeks till Swiss to get my shit together.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-41127562489913868852009-09-29T12:50:00.000-07:002009-09-29T12:58:42.429-07:00Contact updateSo I've had a couple of very close session's on contact v12 over the past week. I was hoping to send just in the nick of time before I start another block of training but the dream was not to be. On my best shot I manage to link through the hard bottom moves and fall just short of the top : (<br /><br />I'll be back though and I know it will go down sooner or later.<br /><br />Rest now for a few weeks and back into training mode.<br />I might post up my plans for this training block soonDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-78317434897993655292009-09-17T06:02:00.000-07:002009-09-17T06:08:35.366-07:00Contact and the Dead Mans Thumb<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPppIOcG4gt3cpWLe_aoGbsMnjTeLQPb4aLR5E3qFHLLFMRzmxmg4HtQGXQG482FBo1o9NYFfaZdGFo827erauxxNNvdQtZFgD039ktIIWjv-4BDUm5IfdPtN3Iym90TWzOUq8UfCZV-3z/s1600-h/THUMB001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPppIOcG4gt3cpWLe_aoGbsMnjTeLQPb4aLR5E3qFHLLFMRzmxmg4HtQGXQG482FBo1o9NYFfaZdGFo827erauxxNNvdQtZFgD039ktIIWjv-4BDUm5IfdPtN3Iym90TWzOUq8UfCZV-3z/s320/THUMB001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382421158290039394" border="0" /></a><br />Belted my thumb with my hammer which I haven't done in years, cold morning, good times! This week and next week was suppose to be an <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">assault</span> on Contact at the villas but now I can't even tie my laces. Hopefully It will feel <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">OK</span> to have some shots next week before I'm due for a rest and start training for Switzerland.<br /><br />Fingers crossedDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-73593261522739928262009-09-15T03:52:00.000-07:002009-10-10T23:21:37.384-07:00Back in the Capital<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/2901402358_45bc091a18.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 255px; height: 380px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/2901402358_45bc091a18.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>An old photo of me on the top out of the Phone Sex Extension. Photo by Tor<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWIWU5SmB8FWR14Wq-X9cBETAsUE0T-elubRIzmg9LtLZT-wtXKapq9hdOT9XdBy0N6yTxOd2ob59aWxYcxFjut75zxvkAi-6iCxBEwVWe8EV0l07YX5pNPP1EZ4lLhAT6fye_-CYLKD9/s1600-h/Ren+Fridge2001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWIWU5SmB8FWR14Wq-X9cBETAsUE0T-elubRIzmg9LtLZT-wtXKapq9hdOT9XdBy0N6yTxOd2ob59aWxYcxFjut75zxvkAi-6iCxBEwVWe8EV0l07YX5pNPP1EZ4lLhAT6fye_-CYLKD9/s320/Ren+Fridge2001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381645743170629682" border="0" /></a> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Ren</span> @ North Black night session<br /><br /><br />Blasted back down to Canberra last Saturday after work. Arrived <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Corrin</span> Dam at the Glitz boulder late in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">arvo</span> to get back on <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Cerebro</span> v11. I've been super keen to get back on this fantastic line since last trip. I'd worked all the moves on some previous trips and was hoping <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">I'd</span> be able to link it all together. I managed an early high point sticking the last hard move but I celebrated too early! my foot popped and I was back on the mat quicker than I could say idiot!<br />I thought it was all over but after a few failed <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">attempts</span> I pulled my shit together and sent just on dark. I was super excited as <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">I'd</span> been training over the past few months with sending this as one of my goals, so it was nice to feel it had all been worth it.<br /><br />I raced back over to Black Range to meet up with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Ren</span> and Stu, who were still boulder at 9.00pm when I arrived for their 3rd <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">sess</span> that day! I was impressed.<br /><br />After a nice camp out at Black Range the boys were keen to head over to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Corrin</span> the next day to try phone sex v8. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Ren</span> was so close sticking the jug at the end of the business but unable to match. I thought it was a great effort considering all the climbing they had done the day before. I managed to do Duncan Brown's extension to Phone sex which <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">traverses</span> right and tops out up a scary slab to finish. Very excellent and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">definitely</span> worth a lash if you have already done phone sex.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-37175629955122999972009-09-10T01:35:00.000-07:002009-09-10T01:52:20.762-07:00Making hay while the sun shinesProject no more, I finally completed the Dug out link up last night to produce 'Bases Loaded v10'. Like all things when it all goes well it felt not too bad on the send and I'm really <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">physced</span> to finish it up. This little cave has some classic lines now and has something at every grade from V5 to V10.<br /><br /> It gets really bad in that little cave when it's wet not because it seeps but because there is a natural water coarse that runs over the lip of the cave making the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">slopey</span> top out impossible for weeks after rain. The conditions have been perfect there recently, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">probably</span> some of the best I'd ever seen it in, so the pressure was really on to finish it before the rain comes again.<br /><br />Happy Days<br /><br />The coast now has 3 V10's and a slew of problems V8 or harder.<br /><br /><strong>Bases Loaded v10</strong><br />The dug out cave link up at the road house 15move horizontal roof into v9 exit<br /><br /><strong>Deep Brain Trauma v10</strong><br />The full brown room pergola link 25+ moves of roof lip with an added hard v8 sit start<br /><br /><strong>Bullet and a Target v10</strong><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Wagstaffe</span> top cave powerful upside down <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">gaston</span> and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">underclinging</span> to tricky head wall<br /><br /><br />I also took a walk out to the Happy Place at Dark Forrest and found a nice new access that avoids the long walk/scramble/<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">trespass</span> access. So now it's a nice stroll to the top of the cliff to enjoy the view then duck down into the cave and it won't disturb any neighbours which is great! I'll update some access details in the guides soon.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-71992148918601232132009-09-09T04:06:00.000-07:002009-09-09T04:35:28.598-07:00Gramps Update<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAa_09t9gd9bdaBuTH1j6KY7yh1e3azNfuDI-PRi3VAj0Zu0JNKB6COzvuHos7yBCTU0IhPm_I1SWW-tb67MKfReGzuNKt4U-SF_NExowK6cBMISWRRJ_4GXHAsuqBr1X50_oT_XTOlhbh/s1600-h/new+gramps001.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAa_09t9gd9bdaBuTH1j6KY7yh1e3azNfuDI-PRi3VAj0Zu0JNKB6COzvuHos7yBCTU0IhPm_I1SWW-tb67MKfReGzuNKt4U-SF_NExowK6cBMISWRRJ_4GXHAsuqBr1X50_oT_XTOlhbh/s320/new+gramps001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379428623177121154" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-weight: bold;">Me on Flesh Bar v9</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3LkSeNCik2-G_z0ZzBA5tAluPk8nN6ghUTmNHfBtC45pjNI0hiyEnmoDnrwu-GdAR66C1Y9Ggms9q3sDhRKf90jtHzG7WIkkhicuRgPLC3HG_rCSJkFDFW-nmy2ok-foQhQx48_DGIMy4/s1600-h/new+gramps002.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3LkSeNCik2-G_z0ZzBA5tAluPk8nN6ghUTmNHfBtC45pjNI0hiyEnmoDnrwu-GdAR66C1Y9Ggms9q3sDhRKf90jtHzG7WIkkhicuRgPLC3HG_rCSJkFDFW-nmy2ok-foQhQx48_DGIMy4/s320/new+gramps002.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379428292658766530" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-weight: bold;"> Simon on Monkey Bars V8</span><br /><br /><br />So we're back from our quick little jaunt, it was a good little trip and great to get away. Couldn't say we did heaps of climbing but we were all pretty tuckered out and just enjoyed getting away for a rest as much as anything. After a big week at work me and Chris ended up staying up for a few beers on Friday night before the flight and jumped in bed around 2.00am before getting back up at 4.00am to race to the airport for our flight, oops. Simon had been up late too setting for the climb fit boulder series so when we hit the Mt Zero cabins Sat arvo we all crashed out.<br /><br />Sunday was a nice day with a little rain still around we headed up to the Kindy. We bumped into the Melbourne crew and tried grip master v10 with them. Alister Robertson was crushing this tuff classic only to fall at the very end on several shots, he was looking so close so I'm sure it won't be long till it goes down. Me and Simon made a bit of progress on the moves but otherwise got spanked!<br /><br />Later that arvo Simon sorted all the moves on Monkey Bars v8 and fell just before the end. I managed Flash Gordon v8 which was really nice and climbed beautifully, another Gramps classic. Chris worked the cut and waste traverse in between shots and made some nice links all the way to the end.<br /><br />Monday the weather crapped out so it was back to the Kindy. Simon just missed out on the Monkey Bars which I thought was very unlucky cause he was looking so solid. It's in the bag for next time. I kept up my string of reversals by starting at the end of Flash Gordon and climbing back to finish on the handle bar of monkey bars. I called this Flesh Bar and proposed V9 as it felt harder for me and is worthwhile for the very different climbing. The idea was to finish up monkey bars but i fell halfway through so it will be one to come back for.<br /><br />So a pretty quick trip but I feel 100% better having had a bit of time off work and lots of sleep.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-20100310697806479492009-09-04T03:52:00.000-07:002009-09-04T03:58:50.307-07:00Gramps, Gramps, GrampsAs the title implies I'm off to the Gramps in the morning with my good Mate Chris Ritchie and Simon Stevens and I can't wait! Work has been full on shit for the past month so a few days of uninterrupted cranking is just what the doctor ordered. I was looking forward to getting out with Philby too while we were down there but unfortunately he's exploded his knee doing some wild maneuvers in the gym :( bummer. Hope your better soon and keep crushing that hang board mate.<br /><br />I'll report of the goings on of the trip next week.<br /><br />Happy trailsDaniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2313591895771483635.post-10507539362252227412009-08-26T04:45:00.000-07:002009-08-26T05:56:54.097-07:00Stepping out from the Dug out with the Bases LoadedIt's a great feeling to come back to something that felt impossible for you and to have it feel possible. It's a good reminder of your progress and how quickly you improve when you really work at it.<br /><br />I have a long standing project at the Road House in the Dug out cave that I went back to try again today for the first time in maybe a year or so. It's basically a link up of two problems I established about 2 or 3 years ago.' The extended line ' which is a long 15 move v7 into the crux of 'fast ball v9' which originally was a very low percentage double dyno move from two horrible holds to the sloping lip of the cave. At the time it was the only way I could see of doing it and basically threw myself at it for weeks on end until i finally stuck it. Then I started to work the link which for about 100 shots went like this;<br /><br />Cruise through the fifteen or so moves that i had wired only to fall off slapping the finish hold. Arrggh the frustration! until finally i cracked it and left it alone until now.<br /><br />So i was very happy when i worked out a different finish today. It wasn't that i had missed the holds or anything I just think at the time I wasn't strong enough to use them. It kind of consists of crossing under your body to a poor undercling then punching out to this little arete on the lip of the roof and slapping out that until you gain the lip. It's not easier by any means just more probable for me and now there are two ways to do fast ball to suit your taste.<br /><br />I'm really excited to get back and finish the whole link off now and see it through to the finish. It is definitely the longest FA project i've had on the coast and would be awesome to realize that little dream.<br /><br />All this project talk got me thinking about some of the hard unclimbed projects about the coast. They're out there ripe for the taking, just waiting for someone to come along a nab them.<br /><br />Here's a few that come to mind<br /> (I've pre-named them in my head, fucking sad I know)<br /><br />The Window, The fort woy woy<br />Starts from a big hole then gain a slopey pinch, match a battle a desperate top out.<br /><br />Sparrow, Blackwall Mt<br />Below the Kit Kat wall on Mt Blackwall is one of the best v7's on the coast, The Crow established by Gary Hamilton many years ago. To the left of this is it's angry little brother, come out the little roof on a variety of ok holds till you round the bulging face using a heel hook on a spike and two nasty nasty crimpers.<br /><br />Pit Brick boulder Arete proper, Lara street<br />This has to be one of the best and hardest undone lines. Start as for the excellent mick's arete but instead of escaping right to the face, blast directly up the steep slopey arete.Will be v11 and up.<br /><br />Mega pinch project, Lara Street<br />Also on the pit brick boulder, slightly over hanging face climbed via various bad pinches. The desperate top out has been done by Jas Piper as 12 monkeys V4 and is hard in it's own right.<br /><br />Eldorado, Golden section<br />From the right of the cave climb into the finish of Goldie Horn via some crazy roof moves<br /><br />Challenger Right, The cape<br />Similar to the classic v4 challenger left but start from the right side of the arete, has proven much harder.<br /><br />Old man river proj, River bed<br />Then finish of the established traverse 'river of dreams v5' which finishing on a slot below the lip of a roof. Make a big move to the slopey lip then some how gain the better holds higher up on the face to to out. Will be classic!<br /><br />Riot Act, Pearl Jam Cave<br />The link up of the hard v8 'dissident' then traverse left and finish up the dyno 'yield v5'<br /><br />Road Side boulder, Wagstaffe<br />The obvious hard line on the first boulder you pass on the walk in right next to the road cutting. From the back of the black cave traverse out the right side to gain the big slopey break then punch the top without falling on the road.<br /><br />Bases Loaded, Road House<br />Hopefully soon to be completed link up of 'Extended line' v7 and 'Fast Ball' V9<br /><br />So many more too! My brain hurts, I'm going to bed.Daniel da Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07037114782804052245noreply@blogger.com0